Starting a New Adventure - The Northern Forest Canoe Trail

One of my favorite things about working with my river family at Adventure Calls Outfitters is that each year someone inevitably comes up with a new adventure to try and usually invites others to join. The adventure can be anything from rafting on a new river, a weekend camping trip, climbing mountains, hiking or any number of outdoor activities. 

For me, this is great since my family doesn't always share my zest for the outdoors and "roughing" it.  We spend plenty of time camping each year, but it usually involves a warm cabin with electric and a full kitchen.  When exploring with my fellow guides, its typically primitive camping and spending time in my hammock.  

When Tim mentioned his plans for this year, I was immediately intrigued and excited.  Tim has a goal to complete the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (NFCT); a 740 mile trek that starts in Old Forge, NY and ends in Fort Kent, Maine.  There are a total of 13 sections to the trail that cover 56 lakes and ponds, 22 rivers and streams, and 62 portages (for a total of 55 miles). 

Day 1 - Starting our Journey

Starting Point of the NFCT - Old Forge, NY

Today we will be paddling the Fulton Chain of Lakes (a total of eight lakes appropriately named First Lake - Eighth Lake). A total of six of us are starting the journey together (two of us were eager to get started and were already on First Lake when the picture above was taken).

Paul (my paddling partner for the week) and our fully loaded canoe

We could not have picked a better first day to start the journey.  The sky was blue with a few clouds here and there, the sun was out and it was warm, but not too hot. 

As we paddled through the first four lakes, I'm reminded that while we are in the Adirondacks, we are in one of the most travelled parts of the park and people are taking full advantage and coming out to explore this year.

However, there are still great sights to see.  I'm not sure when the last time I saw this many loons.  While passing through Third Lake we got a great view of Bald Mountain and the fire tower at the top.

Bald Mountain Fire Tower

After completing the carry from Fifth Lake to Sixth Lake we stop for a quick lunch and head off to complete the final three lakes of the day.

Seventh Lake gives us an incredible view of a seaplane practicing landings.

Our day started in Old Forge at 7:00AM.  At 6:32PM we finally reach the end of Eighth Lake and our destination for the evening.  We have completed 8 lakes, 2 carries and 18 miles of the NFCT.

Eighth Lake shore - End of Day 1

The lean-to at the end of Eighth Lake is our campsite for the evening.  A few of us setup hammocks and tents while the rest of us prepare out sleeping bags in the comfort of the lean-to.  

At some point during the night, I hear someone or something wandering around out site.  This is the Adirondacks, so I'm fully prepared to open my eyes and see a bear or another animal wandering through the site.  Instead I see Brian searching around the site with a flashlight and taking notes on what he sees.  

I've got to see what he is looking at...............

I was prepared for bears, I wasn't expecting the issue that we now face.  We've had a visit from the local population of mice.  They are everywhere.  A few dry bags, storage bags and even one of the tents now have additional openings in them that were not there before.  

After making sure that all the mice have left I return to my slumber. 

Day 2 - A New Set of Obstacles

Our second day starts with a carry from Eighth Lake to Brown's Tract.

The Boardwalk to Brown's Tract

Brown's Tract is a completely different experience than we had yesterday.  Gone are the waves and wake from boats and open lakes and we are now paddling through a marsh that looks like the perfect moose feeding grounds.

One of the many beaver lodges in the area.

It's not the moose we need to worry about though.  Brown's Tract is home to a large population of beavers and they have built multiple lodges and dams throughout the area.  We encounter a total of four beaver dams that we need to navigate.  According to the guidebook, a misstep around the dams and you will find yourself waist deep in mud. 

Getting out of the canoe isn't an option.  Paddling around the dams isn't an option.   Breaking down the dams, again not an option.   There is only one option here, paddle over the dam and stay in the canoe at all costs.

The kayaks and solo canoe go first and each navigates that dams as we encounter them.  Now it is our turn.   We back up, and get as much speed up as possible to clear the dam.  The front of the canoe clears the dam and then...

Negotiating a beaver dam in Browns Tract.

We are stuck.  Luckily we had brought along extra equipment to try in any situation that might come us, so even though we are in a canoe, we have a kayak paddle in the canoe that can be broken down into two pieces.  With one half of the paddle in each hand we are able to steady the canoe and pull ourselves forward over the dam.

The same process is used for each of the next three dams and we finally break free into Raquette Lake.

Raquette Lake

Over the first few carries and paddling through 10 bodies of water, we realize have some equipment that needs to be repaired, enhanced or replaced (some kayak wheels are just not made of the terrain we are putting them through), so we decide to stop in town to see what we can find.

While we were unable to find new gear in the town of Raquette Lake, we did find some amazing treats and ice cream.  We will be in Long Lake the next day so the new gear can wait.

Raquette Lake is the largest of all of the lakes in the Adirondacks.  The weather to this point has been amazing, but we are in Adirondack Park and weather can change at any time.

The shortest route to take would be to cross the middle of the lake and head past the Great Camps, through the islands and up to Indian Point.

As we make our journey, the winds pick up and we are paddling into the wind.  We decide to head in closer to shore and follow the path up to Indian Point.  During our paddle into shore, Paul's hat is blown off his head and my Adventure Calls Raft Guide cap joins Paul's hat in the lake.  The river gods have taken their first offering for the trip.

Our group finally reaches Indian Point and at this point we have to cross one of the widest points of the lake to get across to Bluff Point.  I watch as a pontoon boat passes and realize it is dancing on the waves as it crosses.  Everyone on this trip is an experienced guide, knows the risks and is prepared for our journey so we cautiously start the half-mile crossing to Bluff Point.

At this point, the wind picks up and the waves are now 3-4 feet whitecaps coming at as.  Paul and I take our time turning into the on-coming waves and using the break in between to push towards shore.   The entire time, I keep watching the dock on shore hoping that it will soon be within reach.  Just over halfway through the crossing, the rain starts. 

When we reach shore, we discover that we've been being watched as we were crossing the lake.  A woman is standing on shore encouraging us to come into the dock.  The rain has stopped and Mary welcomes us to Bluff Point.  

Group picture at Bluff Point with Mary

We sit and talk with Mary for a couple of hours while waiting for the winds to calm down before finally getting back into our craft to resume the paddle through the rest of Raquette Lake.   Meeting people like Mary is one of the great things about trips like this.  Things won't always go as planned, but finding a silver lining in the little things makes all the difference. 

After completing Raquette Lake, we carry our gear to Forked Lake.  Our goal is to finish Forked Lake and complete the longest carry of this trip before nightfall.  We're all drained and we've pushed our limits for the day so we decide to break for dinner on the shores of Forked Lake.

Dinner on Forked Lake

All along our route, there are primitive camping sites and lean-tos so we paddle to the next lean-to on Forked Lake and setup camp.  Our day started with a carry to Brown's Tract at 7:30AM and we reach the lean-to just before 8:00PM.  

Sunset from our campsite on Forked Lake

The campsite is a few miles short of the goal for the day but we've travelled just under 15 miles for the day. 

Day 3 - Finishing Section 1 of 13 for the NFCT

Our third day starts with a short paddle to the end of Forked Lake and to the carry that we have all been thinking about since the start of this trip.  The signs for the canoe carry don't show a distance, but the total carry from Forked Lake to just past Buttermilk Falls is approximately 3 miles.  

Most of the carry is along the road and we have wheels for each craft, but the carry is long and tiring.  

Buttermilk Falls

A break at Buttermilk Falls is a welcome distraction from the carry and we take a break for snacks before continuing the journey to Long Lake.

Our lunch view

From here we paddle into the village of Long Lake and enjoy an actual sit down meal. 

Unfortunately at we have to cut our planned trip short here.  There is a large storm moving into the area and the risks of continuing outweigh moving on to the next section.

We are already planning the next section of the trip as well as looking ahead to the sections to come.